In the previous article Product photography on the cheap with only one light pt. 1 - Taking the photo, we looked at taking multiple photos of a product using only one light, and lighting each shot differently. The next step is to combine those images into a single image, which will look like it has been shot with multiple lights.
The final photo will look like this:
I've written a few articles regarding product photography previously. In this article I want to look at how to achieve a good product photo on a white background (suitable for catalogs, websites etc.) at the lowest cost.
Because the aim is to produce a good product photo as cheaply as possible, we'll be using just one light. We take multiple photos of the subject, focusing on getting the lighting we want just in one single area at a time. These photos can then be combined into a single image that looks like it has been lit with multiple lights.
Read the rest of this entry »When thinking about new purchases to help capture better photos most people will probably think of filters or a new lens if they own an interchangeable lens camera. But a speedlight flash can have a great impact on your photography, and should not be overlooked.
In this article we'll look at why you would want to use a speedlight flash, what advantages it has over the pop-up flash built into most cameras, and what the disadvantages are as well.
Insects and other creepy-crawlies such as spiders make great subjects for macro photography. When we normally see a fly buzzing around, it just looks like a black blob. But on the macro level it looks very different.
Horsefly portrait by Gilles San Martin on flickr (licensed CC-BY-SA)
Many creatures can have an almost otherworldly look about them when captured up close. In a sense, they are of another world - the macro world.
In this article we'll look at some tips on getting close to insects (and other invertebrates) without scaring them away, finding them, and how to photograph them.
Read the rest of this entry »When considering a new camera, you may be looking at a superzoom (sometimes known as a bridge) camera, and comparing it to a DSLR or other interchangeable lens camera. Superzooms and consumer DSLRs are often similarly priced.
The specs for the superzoom might show it as having a 24-1200mm equivalent zoom. But you can't buy a lens with this specification for the DSLR.
The DSLR might come with an 18-55mm lens, so that covers the wide end (roughly) equivalent to the superzoom. But how about that long end? Nope, it seems like you can't buy a 1200mm lens for a DSLR. Well, maybe you'll have to settle for a 600mm lens instead. But then you notice the price - as much as a small car.
So, why is a DSLR with equivalent lenses so much larger and more expensive than a superzoom camera? And why would anyone purchase a DSLR over a superzoom?
Read the rest of this entry »Plants and flowers are one of the most popular subjects for macro photography. They are naturally appealing the eye, and can be found easily. Even in winter you can still buy cut flowers to practise your photography skills on indoors.
Rose 7623 by Kain Kalju on flickr (licensed CC-BY)
In the last couple of articles we've looked at lighting for macro and close-up photos, and the different flash configurations available. In this article I want to look at a couple of problems you are likely to come up against when using flash to light your macro photos. These issues with are black or dark backgrounds, and harsh lighting.
While there are a few macro photographers that get great results using the camera's pop-up flash flash, most tend to prefer using a separate flash unit. This allows more for more control over the lighting.
As well as using standard speedlight flashes, there are two types of flash produced specifically for macro and close-up photography - macro ringlights, and macro twin lights.
Read the rest of this entry »Just as with standard photography, getting lighting right for macro photography isn't easy. The main issue is often the lack of light, especially when working at magnifications of 1:1 or above. The extension used by a lens to allow it focus closely, plus any additional extension you add means that not as much light reaches the camera's image sensor.
As well as this factor, you often need to get very close to the subject, which can result in yourself blocking some of the light. And many subjects grow or live in shaded areas, just compounding the lack of light even more.
Bruco di Antheraea Mylitta by Herman Rhoids on flickr (licensed CC-BY-SA)
Focusing for macro and close-up photography is usually best done manually. At close-focus distances lenses can sometimes find it hard to lock focus. If a lens racks the focus out to infinity and then back again before it finally focuses on the subject, this can take some time. It may not even be able to find focus on the subject, and leave you with an unfocused image in the viewfinder.
DSC_1355 by Ben Fredericson (xjrlokix) on flickr (licensed CC-BY) - photo taken using manual focus
