Posts Tagged ‘Photography tips’ (Page 3)

Full auto mode is a shooting / exposure mode found on most cameras. In this mode the camera decides all the settings for you, and all you have to do is point and shoot. While it can often produce decent results, the fully automatic nature of the mode means that you can't make any corrections when the camera gets it wrong.

In this article I'll cover a bit about how full auto mode works, the various problems you can have with it, and when it can actually be a good shooting mode to use.

This is a very common problem that almost everyone will come across. You take a photo of a scene with a nice sky, but the photo comes out with a white or very bright pale colored sky.

The issue here is that your eye has a much greater dynamic range than your camera. Dynamic range is the range of tones from dark to bright. Our eyes can see a wide range of tones, while a camera can only record a limited range. Any tones that exceed the top of that range come out as pure white, any below the bottom come out as pure black.

Thankfully, there are quite a few different things you can do to remedy this situation and capture a scene in which both the sky and foreground are properly exposed.

Modern cameras offer a lot of semi-intelligent automation that makes it fairly easy to get a photo where the technical aspects (such as exposure and focus) are correct. But what they can't do (at least not on purpose) is to take a creative photo - that relies on you. In this article we'll look at some tips to help get you taking more creative and compelling images, and improving your photography skills.

Nowadays everyone is a photographer. I don't mean that in a condescending way, but rather as a matter of fact. The cost of shooting with a digital camera is much less than it was with film, and almost everyone has a camera built into their phone they can use.

A lot of people like to just point and shoot with their cameras. And there's nothing wrong with that. But with just a little bit of knowledge and effort they could be capturing much better images than they take at the moment.

In this article I'm going to look at five things people often don't pay attention to when taking a photo. But by paying attention to these things, you can easily end up with a much better photo than a simple point and shoot image that had no thought put into it.

Long exposure photography allows you to capture movement in a still photo, rather than just freezing a moment in time. You can capture silky smooth moving water, or clouds blurring as they move across the sky. Even blurred trails left by people as they move about.

In low light conditions, long exposure photography is quite easy. There's not much light, so exposure times will necessarily be long. But in daytime there is lots of light, and getting a shutter speed slow enough to blur anything but very fast movement can be almost impossible.

Extreme macro photographs show super close-up views of items, revealing details that cannot be seen by the naked eye, and opening up a new world of subjects.

Standard macro lenses 'only' go to 1:1 or 1:2 magnification. Extreme macro refers to images taken at magnifications greater than 1:1. To get these images requires more than just a standard macro lens, but the equipment doesn't necessarily have to be expensive.

In this article I'll look at some of the options available if you want to be able to capture extreme macro photos. And I'll also cover how to deal with some of the issues that come up when shooting at such high magnifications.

Focus peaking is a form of manual focusing aid found on most modern Interchangeable Lens Cameras, and some compact cameras as well. It works by overlaying a colored outline around (or over) the areas of the image that are in sharp focus, making it easy to see what part of the image is in focus.

While focus peaking has been available on video cameras for quite a long time, it is only in recent years that it has made its way over to still cameras. Although the addition of focus peaking to still cameras came about because the introduction of decent video capabilities to these cameras, focus peaking is actually very useful for still photography as well.

Along with Portrait Photography, Landscape Photography is one of the most popular forms of photography. Capturing images that do the great outdoors justice can be difficult, but so long as you're willing to put a little work in, it's certainly not too difficult.

In this article I'll share five tips that will hopefully help you understand more about what it is that really makes a great landscape photo.

Knolling photography involves capturing images of objects grouped together and arranged neatly, either parallel or at right angles to one another. The look of the resulting image can be quite clean and clinical - as opposed to a jumble of items, everything is neatly laid out.

The technique is very useful whenever you want to photograph a group of items, with each item clearly identifiable. Knolling is often used for sharing an image of the contents of a bag. But, of course, it can be used for other things too, such as the ingredients for a meal, clothes that form an outfit, a small book collection, or just a collection of related items you think would work well for a knolling photo.

In this article I'll share a bit of the history of knolling photography, and some tips for creating great knolling photographs yourself.

A prime lens is a lens with a single fixed focal length - it cannot be zoomed. Prime lenses appeal to photographers for a number of reasons. Depending on the lens, it might offer some combination of a large maximum aperture, small size, excellent build quality, better image quality, or lower price, compared to a zoom lens. In this article we'll look at some tips for using a prime lens, and how to deal with some potential issues you may come across.